Terre del Conero





In this section you will find many interesting facts and insights about our area, its food and traditions. You will also come across many tips about healthy eating, and there are some simple recipes that you can use to enjoy our products.

Wine

Since ancient times, significant evidence documents the importance, or even the prestige, of the production of wine originating in the lands of the Conero. The authoritative voice of Pliny the Elder in his encyclopedia Naturalis Historia, in addition to signaling the Piceno grapes,  commends in particular the wine "Pretuziano" produced in the area of Ancona and the wine called 'the wine of the palm tree’ because by chance a palm tree was born on the farm. Even among the classical authors the greek scholar of Geography Strabo focuses on the production of grain and wine in the area of the Conero. In the late Renaissance period Andrea Bacci (1524-1600), a native of Sant 'Elpidio Del Mare and author of a monumental treatise on the history of wine making and wine production (De naturali vinorum historia) , in addition to recalling the production of wine in the area that is mentioned by Pliny, talks about Sirolo wines that " tawny and golden - blond some muscatel wine made ​​by adding , for good consistency bear to be transported by sea [...] and they preserve for a long time and they are very praised in enopolii of Venezia ."

It is no coincidence that the municipal statutes of Sirolo of 1465 contain several references to vineyards and wine, which highlight the importance placed on the culture of the activity of making wine. For example, penalties were imposed on "those that spoil the Vine and others..........’ in chapter 67 it expresses "the order that pigs should be kept out of the vineyards ", pointing out how pigs, when left to graze freely were often damaging the vineyards. Then from chapter 25 onwards, which is entitled «De lavoratori de vigne e canneti et de la pena de chi contrafarà all’infrascritto Statuto», we can find a sort of handbook for all the steps to follow during the year for the care of vineyards. With regard to the sale of wine, in Chapter 29 we read of the "Order against foreign wines", while in another passage it is ordered that "«a nisuno terriero, o habitator del castello de Syrolo sia lecito, né possi comprar pane o vino a barile in taverna fore del detto castello intra le ditte dui migli, che orni danno o pregiuditio al hosteria del Comun de Sirolo». (“No landowner, or inhabitant of the castle of Sirolo can buy bread or wine in a barrel within two miles of the castle, as it would damage the taverns of Sirolo. "


In the city of Ancona, the sale of wine was regulated, like other goods, by a control body. In particular, there were three delegates of the Council that established and moderated prices based on variable parameters of quality, quantity and seasonal production trends. The classification of the merchandise, as early as the fifteenth century, was based on the primary differentiation between "local and foreign' wine, in other words between wine produced in the district and other imported wines. The sale of the latter was forbidden. It was also forbidden to store such wines in the cellar. In town, wine and mulled wine was sold freely, even by those who administered food as innkeepers and tavern keepers.

The lands of the Conero have always reserved some land for the production of wine of excellence: among the many vineyards on the Conero from which fine wine is derived, we can also find the Bishop's Curia, who had possessions in Numana. In Montacuto, since 1830, the Moroder family has owned a company that produces grain, fruit, root beets, olive oil and wine.

Good reviews about the culture of the vine in the Conero area also came from an investigation carried out in the province lands in 1871: after mapping the vines (among the black grapes we can note that "in the territories of Varano , Camerano , at the foot of Mount Conero we can find the vines called Dalmatia and black Verdicchio, which are also found in abundance in the hills of Loreto and Castelfidardo'), the investigation talks about the story of a commendable initiative. " It is said that the grape yard thrives in our hardened limestone hills, and evidence can be found in the Monte Conero at the Massignano castle, where a priest was able to accomplish the transformation that you want to illustrate. The lands of the Parish were considered infertile, because after producing the wheat and maize seed just three or four times, it almost always dried up on the stem. However, this priest planted vineyards and its wines were famous. He would teach his parishioners and anyone who asked him the secret of reclaiming the lands of the hills, and he was not covetous of his grapevines, which he had, not only been able to place in the right place, but had chosen very well."

Unfortunately, under a sharecropping regime in the entire Marche area it was the quantity of wine that mattered more than the quality. Wine could be enjoyed as a beverage and it was regarded as a food, like bread. In 1890 the disease, phylloxera destroyed the vineyards and the old American vines (used to combat phylloxera) were grafted to vines from various sources and the most diverse varieties were produced in the attempt to increase the quantity of the product. Finally in 1963 with the introduction of the specifications of Doc, clear choices began to be made. So, a combination of the Montepulciano and Sangiovese Rosso Conero was introduced in soils to protect the Mount Conero. Therefore the situation has improved from year to year and has arrived to current standards that have earnt it the ‘Denomination of Origin Controlled and Guaranteed’. (Doc)

Tommaso Lucchetti,
Historian of gastronomic culture and the creative arts



Share on:


Terre del Conero Agricoltori per Natura, soc. coop. agr. Via Peschiera 30, 60020 Sirolo (AN) P.IVA 02474980428
European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development